Berlin Fashion Week: what's next after its comeback?

A huge_ silver-coloured inflatable sculpture by artist Eben Weile Kjaer towers into the 31-metre-high Hall of Honour at Berlin's Palais am Funkturm. In the minutes that followed_ a runway show inspired by the legend of the dragon-slayer George unfolded around this monstrous figure. The models' outfits played with the fluid identities of the present through the lens of medieval archetypes. Is the hero figure a single mother in the big city and the princess a satire on masculinity?

The show by London-based label Lueder last summer was heralded by the voice of a creature resembling a medieval bard. It echoed from the gallery of the hall_ almost as if it was heralding the rebirth of Berlin Fashion Week. The presentation and apparel could hardly be more different from what was shown there just over three years ago. In the same premises of Messe Berlin_ trade fairs such as Premium and Panorama made some of their final appearances before closing down.

This part of the Berlin Fashion Week saga as a commercially successful trade fair city now seems a distant memory. While the trade fairs celebrated record visitor numbers_ the Fashion Week's creative image suffered. Both the shows and the fairs were considered too commercial. In Paris showrooms_ emerging labels were cautioned against showing in the German capital due to its image.

Following the departure of long-standing sponsor Mercedes Benz_ the city of Berlin repositioned the event three years ago. Under Mercedes Benz_ the fashion week had reached its first peak but had recently fallen into a creative standstill. Following the departure of long-time sponsor Mercedes Benz—under whose patronage Fashion Week reached its first pinnacle but had ultimately fallen into creative stagnation—the city of Berlin repositioned the event three years ago. The Senate of Berlin_ the government of the German capital_ commissioned the Fashion Council Germany to organize Fashion Week. Among other functions_ the association coordinates the Berlin Fashion Week program and handles international guest management for the event.

Creating a new image

Through a clever_ gradual expansion of invited media guests_ the Fashion Council has managed to change the external perception of Berlin over the past three years. Initially_ it was difficult to attract trade press and content creators with invitations that included travel and accommodation. Now_ the Fashion Council Germany receives more requests than there are places available in its guest management programme.

In 2019_ industry magazine Women's Wear Daily wondered what the future held for Berlin Fashion Week_ only to conclude four years later that “Berlin Fashion Week is finally finding its momentum.” German media outlets are also striking a more positive tone. Similarly_ hip pop culture titles such as New York's Paper Magazine attested in April that Berlin Fashion Week is gaining momentum again. This should come as no surprise given the current direction: the catwalk is dominated by independent labels that are not afraid to make statements_ including political ones. Creative experimentation and inclusivity paired with a subversive touch make up the charm of Berlin these days.

Last July_ the city once again succeeded in harnessing the potential of its creatives and businesses. The long-established Berlin-based label Ottolinger showed for the first time. Singer Kim Petras walked as the first model on the runway. The audience included Stefano Pilati_ the former creative director of Yves Saint Laurent_ who is now based in Berlin.

The Ottolinger show was one of the highlights of the fashion week and the finale of the Interventions presentation format_ organised by the creative agency Reference Studios. It also featured hot brands such as GmbH and Lueder. The influential magazine 032c hosted a dinner and a showroom for the first time_ where the fashion collection of the eponymous label was on display. Berlin-based e-commerce group Zalando also hosted a dinner.

Targeted funding

Shows on this scale and the rise of the fashion week would be unthinkable without the support of the Berlin Senate. Since Mercedes Benz withdrew its sponsorship_ the fashion week has received four million euros per year_ or two million euros per season.

The funds fuel the international guest program and the core organization of Berlin Fashion Week by the Fashion Council Germany_ alongside the "Interventions" format by Reference Studios. And most importantly_ a key to ensuring an appealing runway program over the long term: each season_ an international jury selects around 18 labels_ each of which receives €25_000 to present in Berlin. The prizes for the Berlin Contemporary competition are also covered by state and EU funds.

“Outside of Berlin_ there is simply no framework for young brands to put on a show of this quality and scale_” said Mario Keine in the Fashion Council's showroom during the previous Berlin Fashion Week. The designer has shown several times during the fashion week with his label Marke_ which he founded in 2022.

In cities like Paris_ such financial support does not exist_ and the Berlin prize money would not even cover a venue in the French capital_ explained Keine. There_ an emerging label would also immediately compete for attention with the major fashion houses and brands.

“The press we get here_ I would have to fight to get even a fraction of the quality of guests_” said the founder of the label Marke. A show helps with brand awareness and how stores perceive a brand. “Collections always sell better when items have been shown on the runway."

More supporters

Thanks to targeted funding over several seasons_ a solid cast of dedicated brands with multifaceted shows and collections that capture the zeitgeist has now been established. Besides Marke_ these include labels such as Richert Beil; SF1OG; Lou de Bètoly; Sia Arnika; Milk of Lime; and Namilia.

In light of the repeated cuts in Berlin's budget_ which have already hit areas such as culture and education_ the question arises as to the future of financial support for the fashion week.

Funding for Fashion Week has so far been provided by the Berlin Senate Department for Economics_ Energy_ and Public Enterprises. The presence of Michael Biel_ State Secretary for Economics_ at the Berlin Fashion Week show suggests that the success of the event is dear to the Senate's heart.

“Fashion is an engine of innovation for Berlin_ and this must continue to be reflected financially_” said Biel during an interview in July.

The Senate was able to implement its intention in the double budget for Berlin 2026/27. “The funding for Berlin Fashion Week_ amounting to around four million euros annually_ has been maintained; smaller savings targets within this framework have been implemented_” a Senate spokesperson said on Wednesday by e-mail. “All formats and prizes will continue to be funded without change.”

The financial support has been secured for the time being. However_ with elections in Berlin on September 20_ no one can predict whether a future government will continue to back the fashion week as before_ given the capital's financial circumstances. The organisers behind the fashion week agree that Berlin Fashion Week needs to attract more private funding in the long term.

The Fashion Council already organises the Metamorphosis Talks and designer presentations as part of Raum.Berlin with the help of US e-commerce company Ebay. In July_ the aforementioned Berlin-based online retailer Zalando hosted a dinner with Reference Studios_ where a preview of the latest collection by London designer Sinéad O_Dwyer was showcased through a Shibari performance.

The head of the Berlin agency_ Mumi Haiati_ would like to see more collaborations with fashion companies. “My main concern is that the major German players get involved_ that they invest in Berlin and Germany_” he said in an interview in July. “We now have the international press on site and have set new standards that can compete internationally. The potential is there_ and it is now being recognised. We can and should build on that.”

"An international hub"

In recent seasons_ the restless mastermind of the fashion world has succeeded in bringing designers and guests to Berlin with names that made people take notice. Rapper Kanye West attended the show of Anonymous Club_ the label of New York-based designer Shayne Oliver_ concealed under his hood. That was in July 2024. At last summer's edition_ Blumarine's creative director David Koma presented the spring/summer 2026 collection for his own label. The British label Mowalola also made its Berlin debut with a pop-up at Reference Studios_ where fans lined up in long queues.

“Our thinking starts locally. However_ our goal is to be an international hub that stands above all for creative excellence_” said Haiati_ whose agency is known for its hype-worthy events. “This season_ we were able to generate even more momentum.”

Intriguing international labels boost the image and program_ adding variety to a fresh season. The organizers of Berlin Fashion Week recognized these benefits and reserved five of the 19 prizes in the Berlin Contemporary competition for international labels for the Fall/Winter 2026 season. This attracted fashion designers such as Kenneth Ize and John Lawrence Sullivan to present their collections for the first time.

Berlin's image has now changed so much that more and more designers and labels are choosing to show in the city_ even without financial subsidies. For example_ emerging designer Genaro Rivas self-funded his show in July_ with the Peruvian embassy providing the venue.

“Berlin has always been on my radar. When the opportunity arose to present my work here_ I decided to take it_” explained Rivas by email. The London College of Fashion graduate had previously shown his collections four times at London Fashion Week.

Clear positioning

Other designers_ such as Vladimir Karaleev_ returned to Berlin Fashion Week after a long break of eight years. “I have shown off-schedule several times_ but this time the moment was right_” said the designer. With the support of the Fashion Council_ he showed a conceptual capsule in July. At the upcoming fashion week_ he will present an installation that explores shirts as a modular system on Sunday. His eponymous label continues to present its regular collections to buyers in its Paris showroom_ but he is closely following developments in the German capital.

“The context of Berlin Fashion Week is becoming increasingly interesting_ as important international stores are now present and the fashion scene here is positioning itself more clearly_” said Karaleev. He met his most important retail partners since founding his label in 2010 during Berlin Fashion Week. “I often see buyers in Paris who are very overwhelmed by the number of brands. Here_ I feel they can take more time to discover brands.”

Karaleev is one of the designers who experienced the heyday of Berlin Fashion Week and is still in business. Until the 2010s_ buyers from all over the world came to Berlin_ primarily attracted by the Bread & Butter and Premium Group trade fairs. Exciting labels like Perret Schaad and Nobi Talai showed on the runways. However_ many could not survive_ as it has always been difficult for small designer labels to find their market. Although Germany is Europe's largest fashion market_ the average customer tends to favour affordable mainstream fashion over high-priced_ experimental designs.

After the end of Bread & Butter_ the commercial image of Berlin Fashion Week began to overshadow its creative one. The proportion of international trade fair visitors declined. Emerging_ trendy labels could no longer identify with the fashion week's image.

That is all in the past now_ but what does Berlin want to stand for alongside the other fashion weeks? In Paris_ the business of designer fashion continues to take place in the showrooms. London has long been considered the place to discover emerging designers.

“A great addition”

“It is a great addition to Milan_ Paris_ London and New York_” said Stavros Karelis_ founder of Machine-A_ a store specialising in emerging designers. “It is a place of exploration. There is so much emerging talent that I love being here and exploring this. That's what I find the most attractive being in Berlin_ is the emerging talent.“

Buzigahill_ Marke_ Richard Beil and Haderlump are labels that have caught Karelis' attention during his visits_ and he is considering placing orders with them.

“I think they can be very viable commercially_” he said in a conversation in July. “I see their communities and I see which customers their products can appeal to.”

It is important for him to observe a label's development for a few seasons before adding it to his store. The relationship between designers and Machine-A is much more than just a business one. “A lot of times they will come to me and we'll discuss advice on how to handle other relationships around them_ you know_ like_ whether that's with other stores_ you know_ activations_ direction with their own brand. So_ I'm very close to most of the designers that we're working with_" Karelis said.

Karelis attends Berlin Fashion Week in a dual role_ as a buyer for Machine-A and as a jury member for the concept competition that decides on the allocation of funding for runway shows and events.

In addition to Karelis_ Chloe King_ a buyer for the US department store group Saks Global_ and a buyer from the Japanese luxury department store Isetan also attended last summer. In the future_ the Fashion Council plans to invite even more buyers_ while the guest list for media will remain at its current level. The Fashion Week is intended to be more than just a presentation platform.

“Distribution is important_ as is Paris as an international location for showrooms and agencies. However_ we are convinced that Berlin will also have more to offer in terms of distribution in the future_” said Scott Lipinski_ chief executive officer of the Fashion Council Germany_ in an interview in July.

Between creativity and commerce

The label SF1OG showed for the first time at Berlin Fashion Week four years ago and has since built up a small network of concept stores in Taiwan_ Japan_ China and the US. Wholesale now accounts for 70 percent of product sales_ and the label is growing by 50 to 100 percent each year_ said co-founder and brand manager Jacob Langemeyer.

“Berlin Fashion Week definitely gave us visibility at the beginning_” he explained in a voice message. Receiving this stage to present products to the international press and to grow the brand was “a kick-start” for the young label.

Two years after founding the label_ he and designer Rosa Marga Dahl discovered that the label's core market is in Asia_ outside of Europe. The 40_000 euro prize money from the UGG Changemaker Prize helped the label with the commercial development of the collection and the financing of a showroom in Paris. Langemeyer still meets most of his buyers in the French capital; so far_ one or two contacts have been made through Berlin.

An acquaintance recently complained that Berlin is now only home to subculture and no longer commercially relevant. A buyer remarked after a runway show last summer that the labels in Berlin are too niche. The disappearance of the major trade fairs was a creative liberation. However_ the question remains as to how the fashion week can establish itself to be commercially in the long term. However_ the dilemma between commerce and creativity that the German capital is facing_ is not a new paradox in fashion.

The organisers of Berlin Fashion Week are clear that they intend to work on bringing more buyers to the city. At the same time_ they emphasize that the timing must be right. “Of course_ our ultimate goal is for orders to be placed here as well. I do not believe_ however_ that you can simply force this on something that does not yet have the network for it_” said Lipinski. “The right distribution measures should take place in Berlin at the right time.”

Opening a showroom and sitting down with sales staff would be ill-advised right now if no orders are ultimately placed. That would not be conducive to the positive narrative that the Fashion Council and other leaders behind Berlin Fashion Week have built up over recent seasons. “Then it is no longer a positive circle_ but a vicious one_ and people will speak ill of it again because something was done at the wrong time_” said Lipinski.