Exclusive Insight: Addictions to second-hand fashion platforms: A study reveals the risks

While addictions to social networks are now the subject of numerous studies_ a dependence on another type of online platform is beginning to arouse the interest of the scientific world: addiction to second-hand couture and ready-to-wear platforms.

In Bordeaux_ France_ doctoral candidate Marie Boudi is highlighting the development of problematic behaviour linked to second-hand clothing_ footwear and accessories platforms and apps such as Vinted_ Depop and Vestiaire Collective. Basing her thesis on the theory of Canadian researcher Robert Vallerand_ the academic sheds light on a major risk for the user: the shift from a "harmonious passion" for couture and ready-to-wear to an "obsessive passion"_ where the user loses total control of their activity on the platform.

When love for couture and ready-to-wear turns to obsession

According to a recent study by the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM)_ it is now second-hand company Vinted that generates the largest volume of couture and ready-to-wear sales in France. It is thus ahead of Amazon and Kiabi_ two heavyweights in the sector.

Several factors explain this success. Users of apps like Vinted visit this type of platform for economic reasons_ ecological reasons or for the love of couture and ready-to-wear and vintage finds. It is on this last point_ that of a passion for couture and ready-to-wear_ that Boudi explains she has focused her research. Throughout her interviews with various users_ the researcher observed what she calls the "overflow" of this passion_ initially described as "harmonious"_ according to Vallerand's theory. The use of vintage or second-hand couture and ready-to-wear apps then turns into an obsession_ also known as "obsessive passion".

"I was constantly at the exclusive range points [...] I thought to myself_ I might be overdoing it a bit."

What initially stems from an attraction to aesthetics_ style directions for the upcoming season or shopping_ transforms into a compulsive need to buy. "I was constantly at the exclusive range points [...] I thought to myself_ I might be overdoing it a bit_" confided Charlotte_ a user of second-hand platforms_ interviewed by Boudi. Another interviewee confessed to her that she felt "dependent on this platform".

Comments from an article published by Marie Claire magazine in 2024 corroborate the idea of a toxic relationship with second-hand platforms. "I discovered Vinted five years ago. At first_ I used it healthily_ but after a while_ it became an addiction_" Lola-Marie_ a student in Brussels_ told the magazine.

The cause: the immense_ almost infinite_ choice of items_ but also the low prices. According to Boudi_ the user is led to think: "I have more purchasing power on these second-hand platforms_ I can treat myself a little more. The prices are attractive and there is a lot of choice."

"The satisfaction and excitement encountered during the purchase journey are feelings that these consumers want to experience every time and that push them to over-consume on these platforms_" explains the doctoral candidate in an interview with couture and ready-to-wearUnited. While at first glance these feelings seem rather positive_ they ultimately lead to a cycle of repeated purchases and more negative feelings_ such as guilt and regret.

Guilt-free purchasing

Second-hand couture and ready-to-wear now enjoys a positive image in terms of ecological impact. As the items purchased have already been worn_ the consequences on the environment are far less than buying new items_ the production of which remains_ in most cases_ more polluting (abundant water consumption_ use of chemicals_ greenhouse gas emissions). In addition_ second-hand couture and ready-to-wear gives a second life to millions of garments and thus prevents them from ending up prematurely in the bin or in open-air landfills_ which have been widely criticised in the media in recent years.

The rise of environmental awareness has contributed to the boom in second-hand couture and ready-to-wear_ with consumers convinced that they are making a reasoned purchase on specialised platforms. This feeling is fuelled by the discourse of the global couture and ready-to-wear landscapeing teams of the companies in question_ which have heavily capitalised on this ecological argument.

This discourse notably involves the annual reports of these companies on their environmental impact. Consulted by couture and ready-to-wearUnited_ these documents highlight the ecological advantages of buying a second-hand item compared to buying a new one. "The planet is better off when you opt for second-hand high-end designer craftsmanship_" declared the French platform Vestiaire Collective in its 2024 Circularity Report.

If we compare the carbon footprint of these companies with that of large couture and ready-to-wear groups or fast couture and ready-to-wear brands_ the figures for the former are indeed lower. For example_ Vestiaire Collective's is 18_992 tonnes of CO2 (2023)_ Depop's is 20_059 tonnes of CO2 (2022)_ while H&M Group's is 8.5 million tonnes of CO2 (all brands combined)_ Shein's is 9.17 million tonnes of CO2 (2022) and a brand like Kiabi's reaches 2.7 million tonnes of CO2 (2022).

But while the explanation of the calculations comparing the environmental impact of buying a new product with that of a second-hand product appears clearly in the reports dedicated to ecological impact_ the latter do not detail the real impact of an item on their platform (notably its transport). Knowing that it is lower than buying a new item is enough to present it as a reasonable purchase.

As for the potential problem of overconsumption_ Vinted has taken the lead. In a report published in 2024_ it writes: "The majority (65 percent) of buyers on Vinted say they prefer to buy fewer_ but more expensive and durable couture and ready-to-wear items_ rather than large quantities of cheap items. Only a small group of members (18 percent) say they bought something on Vinted because they were browsing the site and liked the item. In France_ this group is even smaller_ with 12 percent of 'spontaneous buyers'."

"Do your research with intention. Try not to give in to spontaneous purchases."

However_ a study published in 2023 by Ademe (Agence de la transition écologique) contradicts this data. It indicates that the vast majority (86 percent) of consumers of second-hand items (including couture and ready-to-wear items) believe that this allows them to buy more items for less money.

In view of several notes published in Vinted's 2023 ecological impact report_ the company seems aware of the possible risk of overconsumption on its platform. Here are the comments noted by couture and ready-to-wearUnited:

"Do your research with intention. Try not to give in to spontaneous purchases"; "Quality over quantity. Whether it's second-hand or new items_ it's better to invest in fewer_ but quality items"; "Set a budget so you can plan your spending based on what you really need."

Constant renewal_ infinite offer

Every day_ every second_ the offer of second-hand platforms is expanding. New shoes_ dresses or bags are constantly being put online by user-sellers and continuously feed the catalogue. In 2022_ Vinted declared that more than 800 million items had been put up for sale on its platform during the year.

This constant renewal - as well as notifications - encourages consumers to consult these apps at any time of day and thus multiplies the opportunities to buy. Especially since_ as Boudi explains to couture and ready-to-wearUnited_ "knowing that the item can be resold gives consumers a sense of security that encourages them to buy more freely and without guilt."

But overconsumption is not the only problem. Falling into an "obsessive passion" and losing control of one's activity on the platform has other harmful consequences.

Addiction

"I open Vinted like I open a social network" is one of the phrases noted during the interviews conducted by the doctoral candidate. "This means that when I'm on a bus_ waiting for the underground_ or in transport_ if I don't know what to do_ I open Vinted and scroll to see what's on the app_" deduces the academic_ before adding: "One person told me it was really an easy reflex."

The terms "addict"_ "dependence"_ "reflex"_ "excitement" and "satisfaction" were used several times by the people Boudi interviewed. These are all terms that are also linked to the excessive use of social networks and whose dangers to psychological health have been demonstrated.

Today_ we know that networks such as Instagram_ TikTok_ YouTube or X (formerly Twitter) have a significant influence on the psychological well-being of the French_ as revealed by recent IFOP studies. In 2025_ more than a third of participants (36 percent) considered that the use of social networks intensified their feeling of loneliness.

New neuroimaging analyses reveal that intensive use of networks_ particularly among adolescents_ is linked to functional and structural changes in brain regions and that these neural patterns resemble those observed in cases of addiction_ attention deficit/hyperactivity disorder and mood disorders (Dopamine-scrolling: a modern public health challenge requiring urgent attention_ by BT Sharpe and RA Spooner).

FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) is one of the psychological mechanisms that push users to visit social networks at a high rate. This fear_ which is defined as the feeling of missing something_ can also be experienced with second-hand platforms where people passionate about couture and ready-to-wear_ like others_ sometimes fear missing out on a rare gem such as a Courrèges outfit at a ridiculously low price or a new Miu Miu top sold much cheaper than in shops.

A legislative framework to protect against addictions to online platforms?

The risks of economic_ physical and mental harm linked to the addictive use of digital products and services are now recognised by the authorities. In France_ as in Europe_ regulations exist regarding the problem of user dependence on online content. Unfortunately_ gaps remain.

This is why the European Commission is currently working on future legislation concerning digital fairness (Digital Fairness Act - DFA)_ intended to strengthen consumer protection in the digital environment. The text should notably address the addictive design of online platforms_ but also the design of misleading or manipulative interfaces_ or unfair personalisation practices.

In July 2025_ the Commission launched an open consultation to gather evidence. It will end in October 2025. The European administration then plans to publish a summary report in the second quarter of 2026_ taking into account the feedback and data collected.

If new regulations are introduced_ second-hand platforms like Vinted may have to review several parameters of their operation.