20 years on: A look back at Copenhagen Fashion Week_s evolution over two decades
Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has officially entered its 20th year. The Danish event_ which has roots in commercial trade_ has grown to become an influential player in the global fashion agenda_ giving it the status of the “fifth fashion capital”.
Its positioning has seen it drive forward eco-conscious values across the industry_ and broader collaboration has allowed it to widen its inclusion of designers. This coming edition_ running from January 27 to 30_ 2026_ intends to highlight the progress the fashion week has made over two decades_ with what is expected to be a record number of visitors and a celebratory cultural programme to span the whole year.
In a statement_ Cecilie Thorsmark_ CEO of CPHFW_ said: “Marking 20 years is first and foremost a moment to recognise the strength of the Nordic fashion community. CPHFW has grown alongside the industry_ and our role has always been to create a platform that brings people together_ supports new voices and helps position Nordic fashion within a global context. As we look ahead_ our focus remains on how fashion can continue to develop responsibly_ creatively and collaboratively.”
According to Danmarks Statistik_ since CPHFW_s inception in 2006_ the local fashion industry_s revenue has grown 24 percent_ making fashion the country_s third largest export commodity. International demand has influenced the rise_ with exports growing 84 percent_ making up two thirds of the Danish fashion industry_s total revenue.
As the AW26 edition kicks off_ FashionUnited looks back at some of CPHFW_s defining moments_ from its inception to its status as a sustainable fashion driver.
2006: The fashion week launches
The first CPHFW was launched following a merger between Danish trade fairs_ Dansk Modeuge and Dansk Herremordeuge_ which date back to the 1950s. The consolidation resulted in the creation of a biannual event taking place in January/February and August_ with runways_ exhibitions and presentations making up the schedule.
Early editions were led by founding CEO Eva Kruse_ who oversaw the building of the event_s initial foundations and in turn solidifying the fashion week_s global reputation.
2018: A strategic shift under new management
CPHFW officially underwent a strategic shift in 2018 when Cecilie Thorsmark took the helm as CEO. Under her leadership_ an advisory board was established_ headed by industry professionals. In Futurum was also brought on as a Knowledge Partner_ with the goal of forming a sustainability strategy for the fashion week.
2020: Sustainability requirements first introduced
This strategy was then unveiled in 2020. A Sustainability Action Plan introduced minimum standards in order for brands to be included in the event_s schedule. This framework_ the first of its kind of a major fashion week_ was celebrated by the wider industry.
To further underline CPHFW_s intention_ the event launched its Sustainability Award with Zalando. Through the initiative_ which also backed Zalando_s green strategy _do.More__ CPHFW looked to unite eco-action plans to extend its influence.
2021: Broader industry involvement
CPHFW sought to establish ties with other industry leaders_ and thus began establishing relationships with Nordic organisations_ both to enhance its schedule and to broaden the reach of its sustainability requirements. It launched partnerships with the likes of Oslo Runway and Danish trade show CIFF.
2022: NewTalent is introduced
A major shift came about in 2022_ when CPHFW introduced its NewTalent programme. The talent incubator_ which continues on today_ intends to serve as a foundational support for Nordic talent at the early stages of their business. The initiative backs selected participants through funding opportunities_ mentoring and exhibiting. The programme has since expanded to include a patronage programme_ allowing the likes of Ganni_ Pandora and Vanguards Group to support emerging brands.
2023: Sustainability requirements edited
From CPHFW_s January 2023 edition_ its sustainability standards became mandatory for all brands on the official show schedule. Internal policies were then outlined in a 2023-2025 Action Plan_ in which 220 targets were set to minimise ecological footprint. Among the strategy was that of measuring greenhouse gas emissions from event-related activities_ as the organisation looked to then establish efforts to reduce its impact.
CPHFW also extended its partnership with Zalando_ adding the Zalando Visionary Award to its programme for the SS24 season. The new award sought to recognise emerging talent and their efforts towards social impact and sustainability through design and innovation.
2024: Standards are revised
By 2024_ CPHFW_s sustainability standards had been rolled out_ meaning that revisions had become necessary as the industry and participants responded to implementation. In March_ the organisation released updated and stricter requirements to then be introduced in 2025. Much of these looked to align with new EU policies coming into play.
To further the implementation of these standards_ the fashion week received supportive funding through a shared grant pool of the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs_ focused on the roll out of international partnerships.
2025: Sustainability challenges
CPHFW_s approach to sustainability implementation began to inspire other industry events. After establishing a relationship with Berlin Fashion Week_ the fashion week partnered with London Fashion Week organiser British Fashion Council (BFC) and Amsterdam Fashion Week in embedding its Minimum Standards across other events. It further hosted a roundtable discussion during New York Climate Week_ pointing to a wider rollout. Its updated Sustainability Requirements were then implemented into its AW26 edition following a pilot over the previous seasons.
Despite its efforts_ CPHFW has not managed to escape industry scrutiny. The organisation faced an investigation by the Danish Consumer Ombudsman into its sustainability framework after brands like Baum und Pferdgarten_ Herskind and Stine Goya were accused of greenwashing due to shortfalls in their eco-messaging. Experts accused the fashion week of lacking enforcement of its standards_ while some brands called for stricter standards on the likes of animal products.
It was determined in the latter half of the year that the market watchdog would not commence legal action against the fashion week or several of its participating brands. Thorsmark said CPHFW had “put a lot of effort into developing an ambitious and thorough system first and foremost serving as a framework tool for upgrading the brands we work with_ but also constituting an important entry criterion for at all being included in our official calendar”.
2026: International partnerships continue
Coming into 2026_ CPHFW has introduced a new _Homecoming_ slot for established Nordic brands returning to the schedule. This year_ Holzweiler will be taking up the inaugural role after previously showing in London over recent seasons.
The fashion week will also be broadening its international horizons. Alongside a new partnership with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid_ Nazzal Studio_ the first Palestinian label to show on-schedule_ will be making its debut. Copenhagen-based British designer Sarah Brunnhuber will also be joining the NewTalent programme_ while Swedish labels Sson and Studio Constance have been selected for the One to Watch programme.