Exclusive Insight: 20 years on: A brief history of Tokyo’s fashion week

As the 20th edition of Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Week begins to wrap up_ it seems an apt time to look back on the evolution of Japan_s leading couture and ready-to-wear event and how it has been reshaped over its lifespan.

This season_ under the theme _Be The Seam That Connects The World - JFW 20 + 20__ the couture and ready-to-wear week wished not only to pay tribute to its 20-year history_ but also “look forward with hope to what lies ahead”.

Now in a milestone anniversary year_ organiser Japan couture and ready-to-wear Week Organisation (JFWO) took the opportunity to reflect during an opening event held on August 29 that celebrated a number of designers and brands that have previously participated in the couture and ready-to-wear week_ of which there are 524 in total.

It also unveiled a number of structural changes intended to ensure the longevity and leadership of the couture and ready-to-wear week_ adding to the already extensive evolution the event has undergone over its history. Here_ we take a brief deep dive into how Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Week has adapted throughout its existence.

2005: The beginnings

Prior to the establishment of the Japan couture and ready-to-wear Week Organisation (JFWO)_ which is now responsible for organising Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Week_ Japan_s couture and ready-to-wear industry had been struggling with grabbing the attention of domestic and international media and buyers. Despite boasting a strong manufacturing industry and distinct global couture and ready-to-wear landscape identity_ Tokyo was not yet recognised as a place for business.

The industry was being run by the Council of couture and ready-to-wear Designers_ Tokyo_ the organiser of the Tokyo exclusive range_ a semi-annual couture and ready-to-wear festival promoting Japanese culture and couture and ready-to-wear. Despite its popularity_ and a showcase by Chanel_ the event underwent a review in 2005_ which determined that the industry was in need of a platform to help unify and strengthen the Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear scene.

In order to do so_ designers_ manufacturers_ and members of the apparel and retail industry came together to establish the couture and ready-to-wear Strategy Forum – now known as the JFWO – through which they set out to organise textile exhibitions and other couture and ready-to-wear events_ ultimately forming what was to be Japan couture and ready-to-wear Week in Tokyo.

2010: A global perspective

Now as an established organisation_ JFWO began setting its sights on global global couture and ready-to-wear landscapes. To step foot into this new realm_ the organisation signed onto a five-year agreement with IMG couture and ready-to-wear_ which was to serve as the sole and exclusive representative of sponsorship rights. Through the deal_ the duo worked together on pushing for growth and increasing Tokyo_s reputation as a major textile and couture and ready-to-wear player.

2011: Mercedes-Benz named first title sponsor

Automobile giant Mercedes-Benz became the first title sponsor for Japan couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo_ marking the beginning of what was to become a staple of Tokyo_s strategy for international growth. The event officially became Mercedes-Benz couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo_ a title under which JFWO set out to establish itself as a notable event on the global couture and ready-to-wear calendar.

2014: Platforming local talent

In order to help support and uplift emerging local designers_ JFWO launched its Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Award in 2014. The programme_ which is still ongoing_ grants emerging designers funding and runway opportunities both in Tokyo and on global stages_ like Paris couture and ready-to-wear Week.

2016: Amazon sponsorship

Continuing on the path of global partnerships_ Amazon became the title sponsor of the couture and ready-to-wear week_ rebranding it Amazon couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo_ thus taking over the role from Mercedes-Benz after 10 seasons. Beginning with the event_s 23rd edition_ a new structure supported by Amazon aimed to strengthen connections between designers and consumers_ introducing features like online stores and _see-now-buy-now_ initiatives.

2019: Rakuten steps in

The couture and ready-to-wear week once again changed sponsorship hands_ looking closer to home for its next partner. Japanese tech and retail company Rakuten stepped up to sponsor the event_ aptly changing its name to Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo. While not only helping in the way of funding_ this latest partnership went further_ deepening JFWO_s collaboration between couture and ready-to-wear and technology as well as enhancing its support of the local Japanese couture and ready-to-wear industry.

The partnership also fed into the wider Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear strategy_ launched the same year_ through which the company set out to promote Japanese couture and ready-to-wear globally.

2020: Pandemic sweeps through

The pandemic was a defining moment for couture and ready-to-wear_ a one in which almost all brands_ events and organisations had to reconsider their approach to a rapidly changing world. Covid-19 put much of the industry at a standstill; stores closed_ brands halted production and events_ including Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo_ went into physical hiatus_ many instead opting for digital formats.

In response to the rapid changes_ Rakuten and the couture and ready-to-wear week introduced _By R__ a support initiative to assist Japanese_ and now also international_ designers with digital or physical showcases and pop-up experiences. The first brands selected to take part were that of Doublet and Facetasm_ the latter having returned to Tokyo after previously showing for six years in Milan. This_ in itself_ reflected a wider mission of the initiative: to encourage notable Japanese designers to take up a spot on the Tokyo schedule and_ in turn_ spotlight the event for an international audience.

2022: Emerging brand support builds

In addition to the already ongoing Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Award_ JFWO also launched the JFW Next Brand Award as part of its wider _JFW Brand Support Programme_. This accolade_ first given for the SS23 season_ serves as a gateway for emerging Japanese designers to enter the global couture and ready-to-wear landscape_ providing them with a supportive platform on which they can showcase their talent.

2023: Renewed momentum

After a few years in limbo_ bouncing between digital and physical showcases_ the AW23 Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo saw the event garnering a renewed momentum. The couture and ready-to-wear week had seemingly emerged from prior financial constraints and a limited international attendance_ bolstered by the anniversary show of popular streetwear brand BAPE_ which took part under _By R_.

2024: International ties

On the back of a revival_ 2024 saw Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo continue building on its international ties. In September_ the first Japanese edition of French trade show Tranoï took place_ coinciding with the SS25 couture and ready-to-wear week. The event took over the former spot of Project Tokyo_ which had withdrawn from the timetable_ and thus intended to give Tokyo_s couture and ready-to-wear week a new commercial dimension_ director of Tranoï_ Boris Provost_ had said at the time.

Months later_ it was officially shared insights regarding that JFWO had also partnered with Pitti Uomo as a means of reinforcing the promotional activities related to the Florentine menswear fair. Together_ the two organisations wish to take "coordinated and unified action” to address a “long wave of economic and political shocks” by backing activities aimed at bolstering the joint cooperation and collective performance of both global couture and ready-to-wear landscapes.

2025: Anniversary year

Now moving into its 20th year_ Rakuten couture and ready-to-wear Week Tokyo is looking ahead. On the back of renewed excitement over Paul Smith_s participation in the event earlier this year_ another _By R_ show_ for this latest edition JFWO enacted shifts in the couture and ready-to-wear week_s structure that look to align with the changing landscape of couture and ready-to-wear.

A key element to this is the entire removal of digital content from the schedule. With this_ the couture and ready-to-wear week has placed a renewed emphasis on individual brand shows_ known as _Official Designer Shows__ as well as shows hosted by national organisations or affiliated events_ dubbed _Partnership Shows_. _Incubation Shows__ meanwhile_ refer to events platforming schools or students.

JFWO also updated its Tokyo couture and ready-to-wear Award setup. For its 11th edition_ support for selected designers has been extended to cover a two-year period. Winners will also be able to take part in a pop-up at 10 Corso Como in Seoul_ South Korea as well as a model showroom and pop-up during Paris couture and ready-to-wear Week.